FormulaBeginner

Direct vs indirect labour

Only one of them belongs in your cost per garment.

5 minPrint Profit Navigator EditorialUpdated 12/06/2026

TL;DR

  • Direct labour touches the product; indirect labour keeps the shop running.
  • Use the loaded rate — gross wage plus employer contributions, absence and paid breaks.
  • Indirect labour belongs in overhead, allocated per productive hour.

Costing with the gross hourly wage understates real labour cost by 25–45%, which is exactly the margin most shops believe they have.

Loaded hourly rate
Loaded = (Gross_annual × (1 + Employer_rate)) / Productive_hours_per_year
  • Productive hours exclude holiday, sickness, training and non-productive time

Operator at €34,000 gross

Employer contributions 21%
€41,140
Productive hours per year
1,540
Loaded rate
€26.71 / h — not the €17.70 implied by the gross wage
  • Direct: printing, pressing, pretreatment, folding, packing tied to a job.
  • Indirect: maintenance, scheduling, quality management, cleaning, administration.

Interactive example

Loaded labour rate per productive hour

Loaded rate
€ 26,71 / h
Labour per garment
€ 0,245
Annual loaded cost
€ 41.140

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